My 05' Golf TDI came with a Bosch unit from the factory and lasted about 90k or so, I replaced it with a Bosch Reman and its been doing well, 120k now.
I got an OEM (Bosch) new replacement 120A alternator from German Auto Parts. It came with the pulley installed.
I ended up with a Bosch reman from AutoHausAZ .. was a bit cheaper than europarts-sd.
I would definitely replace your alternator if it is dead. I had the same problem on another one of my cars (Ford). It was really frustrating because the alternator tested good but it kept happening so I thought it was the battery and got a new one. It stopped for about a week but then started again. The alt. was the problem after all. I would also go oem Bosch because the autozone ones don't last that long.
The car had a choppy idle before installing the eBay Corrado G60 140 Amp Alternator . After slapping this on it cured the rough idle and flickering HID's at night on cold start up.
eBay came through for me. I located a 140 amp (vs 90) alternator from a shop in L.A. The Bosch rebuilt G60 alternators use good, but not the best bearings. The owner said he'd use a good core, put in the better bearings (SKF) and build one from scratch for me (gratis). He recommended against using the OAD on the pulley.
i swaped my wimpy 90amp stock alternator for a brand new bosch 120 amp for a vr6 u just have to change the pulley which is easy if you have a impact gun go to a shop with your old and new one and pay the guy 10 bucks and im sure he will do it takes a min everything else is plug and play connector is the same and then all you have is the charge wire that bolts on the alt and goes to the batt ......really super easy
Yeah I just bought a bosch too and it was too wide also I had to hacksaw a mm off to get it to fit in my bracket.
If you put a Botch on a Honda, it will last about 3months.
2 weeks ago, my 120amp Bosch crapped out on my '95 GLX. Decided the Duralast route wasn't a bad direction, being it's actually an OEM Bosch alternator, that Duralast performs the remanufacture on, with their own regulator, brushes, and bearings. It was also stated that they had numerous testing fazes performed after the rebuild. I had a 25% off coupon, and $40 in Autozone credit points. Walked out with the alternator for around $90, being the 120amp alternators are more expensive. Took care of the install, started it, power held, and she ran beautiful. Then a few minutes later, I started to hear a bearing scream. Was worried it was the alternator, as that was the only factor that changed, aside from disengaging the tensionar pulley and removing the serpentine belt during the alternator installation. 2 days later, cars sitting there warming up, hear the RPM's start to change, the gauge cluster display starts to dim, the door chime weakens out, and the car dies. Wouldn't you know, that Duralast alternator **** the bed with less than 10 miles on the rebuild.
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