I would definitely replace your alternator if it is dead. I had the same problem on another one of my cars (Ford). It was really frustrating because the alternator tested good but it kept happening so I thought it was the battery and got a new one. It stopped for about a week but then started again. The alt. was the problem after all. I would also go oem Bosch because the autozone ones don't last that long.
The car had a choppy idle before installing the eBay Corrado G60 140 Amp Alternator . After slapping this on it cured the rough idle and flickering HID's at night on cold start up.
eBay came through for me. I located a 140 amp (vs 90) alternator from a shop in L.A. The Bosch rebuilt G60 alternators use good, but not the best bearings. The owner said he'd use a good core, put in the better bearings (SKF) and build one from scratch for me (gratis). He recommended against using the OAD on the pulley.
The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.
i swaped my wimpy 90amp stock alternator for a brand new bosch 120 amp for a vr6 u just have to change the pulley which is easy if you have a impact gun go to a shop with your old and new one and pay the guy 10 bucks and im sure he will do it takes a min everything else is plug and play connector is the same and then all you have is the charge wire that bolts on the alt and goes to the batt ......really super easy
finally, i got tired of re-charging my car, that i finally got rid of that P.O.S. motorola alternator and swapped on a bosch reman.. been golden ever since then.
Had a noise when idling my 2005 passat 2.0 diesel auto. When I turned the wheel at idle the belt would chirp and jump( at the pwr steering pump). Found out I had a defective Schrage(sp?) pulley/clutch on my Bosch 120 amp alternator.
Alternators don't make good battery chargers and if your alternator is on its way out then it may not be able to charge the battery. A fully charged battery measures 12.6V when the car is not started. When it's discharged by 75% then it measures 12.4V. if it's like 12V then it's totally dead. When you start the engine and the alternator turns, at idle you should have at least 13.4 Volts. If it's less than this then try reving the RPM's to like 2000rpm. You now should have at least 13.4V. If you don't then you have a problem either with the regulator or you have a bad diode.
My Rabbit's alternator lasted a solid 40,000 miles!
Ok so I exchanged the alternator but just got it on this morning and the alternator i exchanged it with was a bosch which is a direct replacement of the original one i have, i hooked it all back up properly, new charge wire and its running at 11.4 volts now and still drops lol.
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