I was able to remove/replace the alternator on my Mazda CX-5 without removing any parts as has been mentioned.
Generally, it's best to go with new OEM (Honda) parts. My second choice is aftermarket, new or rebuilt parts. That said, in all my years at wrenching I've had great luck with aftermarket from reputable (NAPA, Duralast, etc) stores with good warranties.
Honda uses great parts. They're expensive though. I had to buy the OEM alternator for my CRV from the dealer (because that was the only one I could get in one day) and it was 700 bucks
I had a Honda Odyssey do this for years. Finally took to Battery Plus. They checked my battery at the time (which was not having issues…yet) which they said was good. On a lark i asked if their device could tell if the alternator was okay. He said yes, did something on the meter, and then showed me on the screen the alternator showed “errors”. I had the alternator replaced and the dead batteries stopped happening.
In my experience, it’s most likely the alternator, I’ve replaced so many I’ve lost count.
My local mechanic put a new alternator in my older Accord late last year. It was around $550, including a new serpentine belt.
I just had a new alternator put in 2 months ago (3k miles ago) at a different shop. Could all this be caused by a bad alternator?
My 2020 Mazda cx30 has a bad alternator at 47,000 miles. Bought this car about a month and a half ago. Wondering if this is a typical thing for Mazdas alternators to go out fast.
Have been burned by aftermarket alternators. I'll spend the money for an OEM every time.
I think it may be the alternator to be honest because I’ve had one headlight burn out trunk latch inside the car stopped working but the key fob works window button not work properly in one instance, so-called battery wasn’t good when I just had it replaced less than six months ago. Recently they told me that it was my battery this whole time and within two weeks the lights were back on my dashboard.
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