I’d take a Honda battery over a Subaru one any day if the week.
It had a Honda battery in my Subaru for years
Honda batteries (at least the normal-sized ones, not so much the little 151R's) are honestly pretty solid.
In Mar 2022 I went to the dealer and got a new VW battery for my GTI $151. Not knowing any better, I simply swapped it in the parking lot - I did use a OBD-II device to keep circuits alive while the battery was disconnected. All worked like it should.
good. 2014 vw tdi with 360k on the clock and on the second battery. start/stop works just as fine as when i first got it.
I had U350100 as a soft fault in my Tiguan's system for a while about a year ago. I had it throw a hard fault and CEL for the same code twice. I found this to be caused by a fatiguing main battery. Not able to hold a high enough charge constantly to keep all the systems happy. I replaced and coded the replacement battery (000-915-105-CC-DSP) from VW. Made sure to change it's coding to know it was an AGM battery I installed in the Tiguan. Fault has not returned since.
On a Jetta, it will leave you stranded, and it being a VW, the symptoms will be nothing like a dead battery, most likely.
Mine crapped out at 34 months. I bought a new one from VW since they had a 5-year warranty on it and it's still going...
Battery on my '22 HRV Sport died within the first year of owning the car. Honda agreed it was defective.
I've got an essentially new Golf R only about 3 months old and I think my battery is no good. I keep it connected to a battery tender as I dont'drive it often. Even after a week of being connected it never reaches full charge. Also, After I discomnect I put a quick load on it by turning on the lights in order to remove the surface charge from the battery tendder. Prior to putting the load on and just after disconnecting the battery tender the rading is 12.8Votls. After putting the load on by turning on the lights for a minute the voltage reading then drops to 12.28 which seems awfully load. I'm assuming my battery is no good.
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