OEM battery in my 2016 Jetta with 215k miles is still going strong.
In Mar 2022 I went to the dealer and got a new VW battery for my GTI $151. Not knowing any better, I simply swapped it in the parking lot - I did use a OBD-II device to keep circuits alive while the battery was disconnected. All worked like it should.
good. 2014 vw tdi with 360k on the clock and on the second battery. start/stop works just as fine as when i first got it.
I have a ‘21 (Dec 2020) M3 LR AWD w/19”. I’ve put 52K miles on it so far. Generally speaking, I’ve seen very little degradation.
I bought a used 2019 LR in 2020 and my estimated range is 302 miles with 48k miles.
I had U350100 as a soft fault in my Tiguan's system for a while about a year ago. I had it throw a hard fault and CEL for the same code twice. I found this to be caused by a fatiguing main battery. Not able to hold a high enough charge constantly to keep all the systems happy. I replaced and coded the replacement battery (000-915-105-CC-DSP) from VW. Made sure to change it's coding to know it was an AGM battery I installed in the Tiguan. Fault has not returned since.
Battery died July 2022. So got 3 years out of it. New battery is AGM (OEM VW from dealer). Stock battery was not AGM.
2020 SR+ 51K I get about 229 miles at 100%, advertised range was 250 when it was purchased new.
I've got an essentially new Golf R only about 3 months old and I think my battery is no good. I keep it connected to a battery tender as I dont'drive it often. Even after a week of being connected it never reaches full charge. Also, After I discomnect I put a quick load on it by turning on the lights in order to remove the surface charge from the battery tendder. Prior to putting the load on and just after disconnecting the battery tender the rading is 12.8Votls. After putting the load on by turning on the lights for a minute the voltage reading then drops to 12.28 which seems awfully load. I'm assuming my battery is no good.
2019 model 3 SR with 10% loss based on full charge at 52k miles.
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