én végül EBC-t vettem, általában kapja az ívet, amikor kanyargósabb utakra tévedek, eddig mindent kibírt, pedig nem kímélem.Úgy jött ki, hogy Grossglockneren lett befejezve a fék bejáratása, füstöltek már a fékek a nyúzástól és nem ott lett a vége a mókának, hanem még jöttek mindenféle olasz hegyek, ahol tovább lett tesztelve a rendszer határa, de a tárcsákat ez nem nagyon hatotta meg. Tavaly május végén került fel, azóta belement tizenpárezer km, abból 2700 km hegyi túra, és kb. minden hónapban van pár alkalom, amikor a féknek dolgoznia kell elég intenzíven, semmi baja azóta se.
My solution is to always use top of the line brake pads like PFC 11s or raybestos st43 and up.
The other thing I ended up doing is once I really started being able to push the car hard, I installed Porsche 911 993 air deflectors on the lower control arms and that increased airflow was just enough to let me get away with keeping the small brakes. This past weekend I was at VIR and I was getting up to 130 on the straights, even bumping up against the rev limiter in fifth before braking for roller coaster, and the brakes held up fine. That and $30 RockAuto centric rotors.
I got the slotted only, and they look pretty good. They're EBC tho, and coated gray.
Rock auto it legit. The power stop bundle is nice. For my accord, I usually go with centric rotors and akebono brake pads.
Just got oem centric with ceramic pads for my 14 GS350.
Rock autos fine enough for brakes, personally I use the centric coated blanks, I run the hawk 5.0 pads, but for a DD I'd recomend factory pads or ceramic.
I previously ran project mu hc+ and Winmax W3 pads separately on the street for daily duty before. All of the brakes i mentioned were on blank rotors with the best rotors, in terms of price and corrosion resistance being the premium centric blank rotors.
Track pads and the basic Centric rotors. Get the Boomba air deflectors that mount on the control arms and remove your dust shields.
I ran G-LOC pads with Castrol SRF with this setup and had my rotors glowing with minimal fade at Gingerman.
Non-PP, Centric coated rotors front and rear, Endless MX-72 front and EBC Yellowstuff rear, with ATE Type 200 fluid. They are fine for street and autocross but would probably not be good enough for the track.
It looks like you got the C-tek ones, which don't have any protective coating on the non-wear surfaces, which is why you see the rust.
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