My 2008 MKV R32 has the exact same brakes you guys do, but carries 200+ lbs more car I did 3 RT on the Dragon up & back to the Lodge...around 8/10s, no brake fade or issues and the DSG was in Sport I just did the following at 46,750 miles - 4 new OEM rotors - $270 - I never turn rotors, they're a heat sink no sense making them less so. Hawk HPS pads - $210 - they dust about 95% less than OEM, work way better and no noise Goodridge SS lines- $110 - because SS gives a firmer pedal and less likely to burst Motul - $ 20? - because I was doing a fluid change anyway The braking effectiveness is noticeably better in feel & deceleration with no noise, no dust & no squealing I have used this same upgrade on Porsche 911s, Mustang Cobra & GT and always get the same outcome If you are overpowering your brakes, your driving skill set needs to be corrected as that's hard on equipment and ultimately slower... I raced 25 years in 911's and smoothness is faster everytime If you're going to track extensively, take a driving school, and then go hog wild making mods, once you understand the weak areas and how to upgrade to overcome them, Once you can use your stock setup to it's limit, then start making changes - hint - most people with no driving instruction don't even come close to utilizing their car's potential unless its a Tercel - a lesson I learned by doing Bondurant twice and various PCA schools and SCCA & IMSA clinics The weak point is always us in the beginning - Seat time practice + seat time is the key to happiness
I swapped out the OEM pads for Hawk HPS' within the first thousand miles and the Hawks have a quarter of the dust, no noise, an equal level of bite and OEM stopping power. They are the best of both worlds in my opinion.
i put HAWK ceramic on mine. I used the listing for the GTI and they work, but over time I had to extend the backing plate with weld to stop rattle. They are awesome pads with good street manners.
Akebono Euro Ceramic has great cold bite, even in cold snowy weather. The downside? It lacks a "linear" feel.
All pads have been bed in right. I have Porterfield R4S on rear and Akebono Cermacis on front.
I've had Centric rotors and Akebono pads on my MINI Cooper S for almost two years now. Since then there has been 40,000 miles, 3 track days, and a season of auto cross. I'd say they perform on par or above with the OEM step. The pads are definitely a step up with less noise and hardly any brake dust.
I got them on my 08 r32 and there pretty good stop great with the hawk pads i got on it i got the cross drilled /slotted had them on for a few months now and there still shiny and great looking.
I have a set of unknown, but probably OEM pads on the rear brakes on my wagon and they spew dust like crazy, when the fronts wore down I replaced them with akebonos.. no dust, no noise, no issues in 20k miles.
I have never put on a set of OEM pads & have had 0 issues. My S80 came with them and honestly I think the akebonos I replaced them with are better. The only bad thing about the cheap (duralast, I'm looking at you) pads is that they screech a lot if you don't coat the back in DBQ.
I have a clunking noise coming from my front brakes, whenever i hit a bump. This has been ruled to be the outside pad moving around in the caliper. Pretty much everything else in the front suspension has been changed, so i'm pretty sure it is the pad. Mechanic had the car yesterday and said everything looks tight as well. The car stops fine, and there's plenty of pad wear left so i'm not going to switch out the pads or anything. I was hoping someone could chime in and let me know if there's something that can be done to get rid of the "clunk", or do i just live with it. Anyone else ever have this issue? FYI, It's a 2000 Golf with Hawk HPS pads.
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