I'm very happy with Bosch QuietCast pads and rotors.
I went aftermarket with centric posi-quiet pads or Bosch quiet cast. Won’t ever go back to factory.
I've been to 20 track events to this day I'm still running OEM calipers. Just carbotech pads. You don't need a big brake kit at all. The oem cracks because of improper cooldown. I learned that after a session to take my cooldown lap seriously and ever since then i stopped cracking AutoZone rotors
I ran stock rotors for a long time with carbotech xp10/8, front brake ducts, stainless lines, and Motul 660. The XP10/8 + ducts was sufficient for 20min session the tracks I drive.
I did Bosch quiet cast pads and rotors on the front on my 12 a couple months back. I’m happy with them.
Brembo, bosh and a few others mentioned in another comment are all really good too.
I got the Bosche pads. I think they were in a higher category than daily but the front+back together ended up being cheaper then other brands I was looking at. Just make sure you get ones clearly labeled front or back, and Japan built.
I got BREMBO rotors and Bosch quiet cast pads, happy with the purchase.
I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.
For my (owned 3 years, purchased used) 2014 Honda Crosstour I've always had to grind down the edges of the pad mounting plate tabs on Bosch brakes a couple of mm to get it to fit into the calipers. I have just received a new set, and while I still had to grind down the edges to get them to slide into the calipers, the top and bottom edges were MUCH shorter than the previous pads. So much so that when braking after reversing direction, the pads will shift in the calipers with a noticeable 'click' as the brake pads engage the disks to slow the car and are thus moved to the other end of the caliper. The overlap between the brake pad plate and the 'C' in the caliper where the tab meets the caliper is only 2mm or so. Definitely less than I am comfortable with.
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