Been on Hawk HPS 5.0 for over a year now. Good feeling pad.
I went with hps 5.0s and they’re great but I should’ve gone less aggressive
150,000 miles on a Model Y, cabin air filter a few times, tires, checked the brake pads recently, they were fine.
I owned a 2018 Model 3 Performance for ~80k miles and now a Lucid Air Touring with over 20k miles. Maintenance wise, I have spent money on a set of tires for the Tesla (let's call that $1500), brake pads and rotors on the Telsa ($600?) and windshield washer fluid. The Lucid has needed nothing over the past 17 months except for a tire patch.
I run Hawk HPS 5.0 on the street and just pad slap DTC-60 / 30 front / rear and it works fine.
The racing shop that does the work on my track car picked out Hawk HPS 5.0 pads for me for this same purpose. They worked great on the track and don't have much more noise than a factory pad.
I'm only in HPDE2, though, so my track evaluation may not mean much. They were definitely an improvement over the stock pads I used in the previous track outing.
Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, Raybestos AT. I'm on my 4th? set of front pads+rotors after 125k miles. Rears are still the stock.
I just had to do brakes and ball joints on my 2016 Model S (some rough roads, and calipers were seizing from winter corrosion, I live in the state of Maine, US). 100K miles, 160Kkm (160Mm?).
I upgraded to EX brakes with some junkyard drilled/slotted rotors and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. They were leaps and bounds better, but I have boiled DOT3 more than a few times and can sense the brakes when they get hot and I'll simply ease up and go with a slower pace.
I've had a lot of warranty repairs for my 2018 Tesla model 3: both sides for front upper control arms, both side rear suspension, a gear oil motor leaked, and an inverter. Paid out-of-pocket (not warranty) for both sides front wheel bearings, front brake rotors and pads, rear brake rotors and pads, front windshield, roof glass, and now paint and rust work around the fenders and rocket panels.
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