Autozone has the full kit. Just changed mine not too long ago and they are great so far.
My Sport M6 just hit 1000 miles and I was already so sick of brake dust on the rear wheels I installed a set of Power Stop ceramics. The job took less than an hour using OBD11 to put the calipers into service mode. I decided to do it early before the rotors experienced unparallel wear to the OEM semi-metallic pads.
Powerstop works better than Bosch in my opinion for brakes, but I would see if you could find regular rotors instead of the drilled & slotted ones. Drilled & slotted rotors are only worth paying for if you plan on abusing your cars brakes.
QuietCast pads are a solid choice. Centric is an OEM supplier and those are a fully coated rotor, so also a solid choice. If you want to spend a little extra, I’d go for Akebono pads. I ran their pad and rotor kit on my old Mazda 3 and they worked phenomenally but, ate through the pads pretty quick under normal city driving. No issues up until I sold the car.
After lots of research I did Powerstops about 10K miles ago and absolutely love them!! I’ve done lots of brakes jobs on multiple different Toyota/Lexus trucks/SUV’s and normally OEM perform best, and I wouldn’t normally do drilled/slotted, but on these big heavy Sequoias they really perform so great…highly recommend!
My 2020 needed front pads at 24k, rear at 32k. I installed Powerstop kits instead of oem.
Firstly, thank god you’re getting rid of the stock Falkens, because they’re garbage. But as far as the brakes, it’s common. Mazda OE brakes are notoriously short lived. If you don’t want to be right back in the same boat in another 20,000 miles, put on a set of PowerStops or R1 Concepts and you’ll not have to worry about it again for a long time.
OK, just giving an update. I am really enjoying these breaks. I think they are a lot better than my first assumption of 30%. I was just in a quick stop situation and they are very good
Lastly, I had the well-known brake pad deposit problem on the rotors, which over time (about 5-6k miles for me) would cause the steering wheel and car to shake a bit when breaking, similar to the feeling you get when the rotors are warped. I had the rotors cut once, then all four rotors and pads replaced, and then the front rotors were replaced again. As many other Stinger owners online have said, once they replaced the stock rotors and pads with a good set of aftermarket rotors and pads, or some even just machining their stock rotors and getting new aftermarket pads, that seems to have solved the issue for them.
Started sticking after only a couple months. Warranty was only 90 days.
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