Im late to this but ill chime in anyways.
Mine is a 2008 AWD GT with every option. Mileage is 130k. And I run on Regular gas.
By todays standards its a gas guzzler, and even thirsty in 2008, but CRVs werent hugely better.
Ive done nothing to it. Still on original brake pads. And recently replaced the rear wheel bearings.
I dont know why im so lucky except that i do oil changes frequently.
One thing about driving older cars is they arent narcing your driving habits to Mazda. Good to know about insurance.
Since it is top line, it has the Bose system which is decent, but i replaced the head so i could get Bluetooth.
I sincerely believe this car has at least 5 years life left in it.
Brake pads and OEM tyres lasted more than 100 000 Km.
Higher-temp and higher-mu pads (Project Mu HC+R3) + braided brake lines + DOT 4 fluid for me. Slotted fronts, blank rears.
My 12 of this generation is at 222k miles with just oil changes and tires as well. One set of pads and rotors at 175k and still had life left.
Red stuff are absolutely NOT track worthy. Will fade in like 1 lap. Any pads advertised as "low dust" tend to fade pretty fast. Yellow might be ok but I think they're still more of a performance street pad. Project MU HC+ are a good streetable track pad, maybe the best, use them on my Megane RS, no trouble with 20 mins sessions on high speed tracks and trackday tyres (Yokohama AD09). A little squeel at low speed on track but quiet enough to live with IMO.
Project MU HC+ pads. These have a higher operating temp range than Ferodo DS2500 and are perfectly streetable too. I get very minor squeal when coming to a stop if it's been a while since they were used hard. they also have great braking feel IMO, nice and sharp, and perfectly controllable. I use them on a Renault Megane RS 280 Cup, I've used them on track with semi-slicks (AD09s) and they held up great in 15 min sessions. Some minor vibration after the day but that fades away with use (or another hard besdding session). Do not recommend Ferodo DS2500 especially with semi slicks. Might be ok for your first day if you're slow, but you'll almost certainly cook them on your second and get deposits on your rotors. Great performance pads or the street though. On my car I only use them on the front, rears are stock.
Had the same scenario with my cx30 after changing the brakes, only the car messages were things such as engine malfunction and dynamic control malfunction which is ridiculous. Clearing the fault using a Bluetooth obd and the torque app was enough for me, thanks for the post.
Changed the pads front and rear was super easy and straight forward.Then after taking the car out of 'electric brake service mode' and starting the car I get the a yellow check engine light and code C05AB, clearing it made no difference. Only thing I could find online was "The electronically controlled brake unit detects that the pressure feed valve (primary side) is stuck ON (OPEN)."
Mazda brakes are notoriously shit. They’re garbage. Buy a set of PowerStop brakes and be done with it. They’re far superior to the Mazda brakes. Go on any forum and you’ll see countless people having the same issue as you. New brakes between 15-20,000 miles. Me included. I’ve owned 2 6s from new. Both needed brakes around 20,000 miles. Both times I put on PowerStops and never had another issue.
easy 40 minute job to replace brakes on my 14 Mazda 3 took about two hours. It all pops off super easy going great. Go to put them on, well shit they don't fit. Try the other side for some reason thinking I'm just having a stupid moment. Doesn't work either.
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