Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit
176k, Porsche 944. Throwout bearing went before the rubber center did, honestly the clutch was still fine. New Sachs kit in it now. That transaxle clutch job is a doozy.
Sachs clutch kit is the way to go. I've installed several in Z3's, and every one of them had a great feel. The kit comes with everything you'll need besides tools, although I'd replace the clutch fork pivot pin while in there.
I got the Sachs clutch kit with a ecs light weight flywheel I think it\u2019s a stage 1 kit super smooth so far kinda pricey but I\u2019ve dealt with cheap and I didn\u2019t like it.
Just stick to OEM. The OEM clutch is good for 500+ horsepower and you will be making no where near that. Its only $230 for the sachs clutch kit on FCP Euro
I have the kit from darkside on my mk7 (organic plates, “HD DMF”), Malone stage 2. Have about 100k on it since install, no issues or slipping. Clutch pedal is definitely heavier than stock. If you get on it in low rpms, there is still some dmf shudder.
The clutch kit, buy the luk kit pn 07233 on rock auto. It's $500 and change with shipping. Plan a couple of days on the weekend to r&r the transmission.
Retail on OES (Luk) -not cheap-o part) clutch kit is $400 (RETAIL) comes w slave cyl as well. Master cyl is about $100 retail.
I recently had my 2011 Smart Fortwo 451 (1.0 turbo) serviced to replace the clutch and actuator, and I wanted to share my experience. What We Replaced: -Clutch kit (Sachs, OEM) -Clutch actuator (OEM). The old clutch was clearly worn, and the release bearing was almost failing. However, the dual-mass flywheel seemed fine, with no excessive play or noise. After installing everything, the mechanic performed the clutch re-adaptation with a scanner. I finally got my Smart Fortwo 451 (1.0 turbo) back on Friday after replacing the clutch and actuator, and I can definitely feel a big difference. Here are a few things I’ve noticed: 1. Gear changes feel slightly smoother. 2. Weird air sound when accelerating in first gear. 3. The car seems eager to shift but sometimes unnecessarily downshifts.
I replaced the disc with LUKs kit and also had my flywheel resurfaced to be safe. The new set-up has about 300 miles on it and continues to slip. Most noticeably around 2700 - 3400 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. I can feel it seem to slip then catch and gain a magical 15 hp. I have not allowed the clutch to slip enough to have glazed the clutch disc so that's not a possibility, and my "auto" adjusting clutch cable seems to be okay (I can push the transmission arm downwards and the clutch cable spring returns it to the 9 o'clock position). Proper torque specs and sequence were followed and everything was extremely clean upon installation. Also there are no leaks so there is no fluid getting on the disc. New clutch disc, re-surfaced flywheel, new rear main seal, new pressure plate.
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