Koyo Radiator A2807. Great brand and very affordable.
My opinion koyo rad. But any with the heart symbol are favorites.
It’s got an actual Koyo radiator which is a good sign.
My only recommendation after testing several different radiators is to go with Koyo.
Ive had my car enter limp mode multiple times on a high 80 track days. Coolant temp would spike to the 3/4 marks. When I upgraded the radiator to a koyorad I never had issues again.
I am here to say the Koyorad fits perfectly fine with Cobb’s charge pipe. The upper radiator hose had to be completely taken out to get the pass side fan installed but no trimming or cutting of fan shroud. The radiator looks amazing as well.
Experienced a full separation of the top (and possibly bottom) plastic from the aluminum portion - would leak about as fast as I could pour it in. Replaced with Koyorad A2807 from RockAuto.com for $104 plus tax and shipping. Nominal time to repair for a non-mechanic is probably 4-to-6 hours - call it a day project.
My '09 had the bad number, so I bought a Koyo radiator and spent an afternoon swapping it all. That was ~6-7 years ago.
I just bought a koyo and it's a bit of a learning curve installing it. It took a few hours to burp the system of air but now I'm chasing small leaks. The OEM cap doesn't fit the radiator
Roughly 12 months ago, I upgraded the radiator on my 2000 Series 8 (~65,000km/40,000mi) to a Koyo R1443N 48mm N-Flow. The coolant seals blew because the radiator's design allowed air to accumulate, creating hot-spots and leading to seal failure. My water temps never exceeded 90C. After a rebuild, a valve was installed on the radiator elbow, making it quicker to bleed the system, and water temps are now around 77C, about 10C cooler than before. The Koyo radiator's design prevented proper bleeding of the coolant system, causing seal failure.
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