Engine radiator Nissens or OEM Toyota

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Reviews found: 0
Nissens Engine radiator
bkbrick
Rating 4.5
  • Overheating:
  • Leaks:

Nissens if you prefer to buy a new one, mine has been solid for over 5 years. I like the late model until '91 7/9 all metal Blackstone ones too if you're thrifty, I hoard them. I figure a metal rad won't just blow up and leave you stranded like a plastic end tank one will.

Pros: solid for 5 years, reliable
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Nissens Engine radiator
braidenis
Rating 4.5
  • Overheating:

The nissens one. Yes they have plastic side tanks, but they're still good for 8-10 years. (Realistically you probably won't have the car that long) Replace it preventively. Very good for the price. If you go fully metal it'll corrode instead of pop so may as well get the one that's a fraction of the price and will pop 10 years from now. It's a quality unit and is the only direct no modification drop in replacement still available to my knowledge. Even has the thermal switch installed that was for some models with a auxiliary electric push fan.

Pros: good for 8-10 years, good price, quality unit, direct replacement
Cons: plastic side tanks
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Nissens Engine radiator

Nissens is good, put a long zip tie around the upper plug on the passenger side above the transmission fluid return, the plugs can push out.

Pros: good quality
Cons: plugs can push out
Vehicle: Volvo
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Nissens Engine radiator
E_S_B
Rating 3.5
  • Overheating:

Biggest issues were constant air suspension faults and 2 failures leaving me stranded remedied by converting to coils. Other big expenditures have been 2x radiators (got fed up with Behr and switched to Nissen with no problems since), fuel pump, alternator, ignition switch, and starter.

Pros: Nissen radiator reliable
Cons: constant air suspension faults, Behr radiator issues
Vehicle: Land Rover Range Rover
Mileage: 378170 km
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Nissens Engine radiator
Haunting_Barnacle442
Rating 1.0
  • Overheating:
  • Leaks:

I bought a Nissens radiator because it was the highest rated one for my car. Everything went so smooth initially. Bled the system, pressure tested it, drove it for 20 minutes, and it ran beautifully. Checked for leaks, nothing. Then, the moment I drive off the lot, my low coolant light comes on and coolant was pouring out the bottom of the car. I got a (2E83) *Electric coolant pump, reduced power operation* error. The car never overheated or went into limp mode.

Pros: initial smooth operation
Cons: sudden coolant leak, pump error
Vehicle: BMW
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