my 17-yo, 168k Golf 2.0 gets 5/30 full synthetic and either WIX or Bosch filters.
Youll be fine without a subaru filter, if youre using it long enough that it creates the pressure to go into bypass you need to stop being cheap and replace the filter each change and change more often.
I use Bosch Long Life D3300 oil filters and Rotella T6 5w40, gonna see how Motul 8100 5w40 does in comparison.
Avoid 5w30s most of them sheer to a 20 weight by the end of the change interval if you drive your car like its meant to be.
I've never had issues, and I oil test my car a few times a year.
I just buy a Bosch at Walmart. My Accord has been chugging along fine for past 12 years with those.
As long as the filter works well with synthetic oil. Some really cheap ones dont work well with synthetic like the red Purolator or Microgaurds. Bosch makes a great filter, I've used a few in my cars with store brand synthetic oil and oil stayed brown for a long time.
I've had good experience with the Bosch distance plus filters.
oil changed and one new Bosche oil filter later the car now has total oil pressure and runs great.
If you are going to go with extended oil changes 10-20k miles you must use a high quality filter and if not a Group 3 Polyalphaolefin (PAO) oil, an actual full synthetic oil would be best. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not true synthetic they are (PAO) Group 3. Red-Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the common true synthetics. If you paid less than $15-$20 a quart for oil it's not a true synthetic.
Your filter has to be high quality. Even then I would advise you change the filter and top off your oil at 8k-10k miles.
Oil filters that are able to go for extended runs are Wix, Napa Gold, and Bosch. Those are the 3 brands I trust for long term use. My truck with over 170k miles drives like it did over 13 years ago when I got it new.
Bosch oil filters. I used them to desludge 2 engines, and it CONSTANTLY keeps pulling more and more out. Only problem, they are black, so leak detection can be difficult if its in a tight spot.
I have a 2001 Passat 1.8T, on which the oil and filter have been changed every 6 months or 3K mi, whichever came first. The dealer performed the first 4 oil changes, to the 2-year point, then I took over, always with a Bosch or Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Having received the engine sludge notice, I switched from name-brand dinosaur oil to Mobil 1 at my most recent oil change (last month, 23K miles). Although I receive no adverse temperature or indications at the instrument panel, the valve cover SEEMS perhaps to be running a bit hotter than before. What really concerns me is that, when the engine is warmed up, if I stop and idle it for 30 seconds or so, the engine starts making what to my semi-practiced (but new to VWs!) ear sounds perhaps like valve, lash adjuster, or camshaft bearing clatter. The sound emanates from the rear/cylinder 3-4 area, away from belt-driven accessories, etc. Does this sound like an early symptom of sludge, perhaps associated with insufficient oil pressure at idle? Given my history of frequent oil changes and otherwise by-the-book or better maintenance, I would not have expected to be a sludge victim at 23K miles. I suppose I could have just installed a defective brand-new Bosch filter, or I suppose the synthetic oil could have loosened some sludge from my dinosaur days, but these seem like real stretches for an explanation. Any suggestions regarding diagnostics?
I put in Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 and a Bosch oil filter from autozone. My problem now is that whenever the oil gets up to operating temperature my oil pressure light goes on and stays on under 2400 rpms, anything above that and I'm good.
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