We ran only Fram (PH-8A) on our 1971 Ford LTD until the 1990s when we sold the car with 230K miles on it, and it had just started a light main crank bearing knock.
I use the Fram Synthetic Endurance. It’s a super high quality filter blessed by all the cognescenti at bobistheoilguy.com.???? Definitely not the Fram orange cans from years ago.
I use Pennzoil Platinum and Fram Ultra filters.
It’s easy peasy to DIY at every OCI (5k mi or 6 mos whichever comes first, 2014 Mazda6 Touring 6MT). Been doing it, for decades (various makes; at times with an oil boy vacuum fluid extractor). Will be changing mine tomorrow. This time, will try Kirkland 0W20, with a German Hengst oil filter (identical dimensions/specs Made in Japan OEM Mazda PE01-14-302) plus Lubro Moly MoS2 (molybdenum).
Probably still better than a fram
I don’t use FRAM filters; they don’t stand up to my pipe wrench tightening technique.
I agree with the 20W50 and good filter stay away from Fram, Bosch and Generic or Store Branded filters as they will give you the blinky oil light at idle controlled by the Canned Sensor on the right side of the head as you look at the engine.
Ends up the Fram 9584 does NOT have the correct size holes. Both are the same and smaller diameter. It will NOT fit over the base without ripping. However, the Fram 9584XL does.
I do tend to be picky about filters though. I like Wix, OEM AC Delco, and Mobil 1. I will avoid Fram like the plague.
No, that's not normal or good.Fram is junk - my mechanic told me a good oil filter would never collapse like that.When it does, it constricts the oil and it's not filtering properly. Go with an OEM filter, or go with Mann.I do oil changes every 15k (as per manufacturer) and I used a Fram once, and it looked like that. Since then, only used Mann or OEM and they look the same when I pulled it out after 15k.Do not cheap out on oil filters.
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