Bosch and Mann would be the original VW suppliers so you can source them cheaper .
The /30 is rated for 30,000 Km the older /5 was rated for 10,000 Km /30 uses synthetic fibers for longer lasting oil changes. /5 uses Paper fiber that does not last more than 10K. If you plan on changing your oil before 10,000Km you are ok using either one. I used to change my oil every 15,000 KM (back in 1993) using old /5 filter. I changed the filter half way through at 7000Km. Now with the new /30 filter I go full 15K on same oil filter.
My experience is similar - 231,500 km (146k miles) on my VR6, has run excellent, M1 10w30 and Mann filters about every 7500km. No internal work done on it.
I guess after 24 years and almost 300k miles I should have realized that using Fram filters was a bad idea. I added a factory oil cooler to my GTI to deal with the additional thermal load caused by my turbocharger. I has been very effective in dropping oil temperatures and has not significantly raised my coolant temperatures (I added a cooler fan switch as well), it's a great way to go.
I personally used the small Mann filter for 100k miles and now am using the bosch.
Filters, I'm parcial towards Mann products, if you can find them. Never a problem with Wix.
Is the Mann W940/25 roughly equivalent to the Mobil 1-301 in capacity?
cut a few fram filters before and they were horrid. if you do use a fram filter, use the Xtended Gaurd, much better then the fram PH filters
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. These filters are manufactured by Allied Signal, Inc. Please do not buy these filters. By boycotting it, we may be able to cause some change. I have personally had one if these filters fail and actually cause engine damage due to bits of paper and glue floating around in the engine. For some inside dirt on Fram filters, see this email from an Allied Signal production engineer. " "Fram Extra Guard PH8A This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time, but they often leak anyway. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow, and is made of thin material.
Get a dealer filter, or Mahle or something, don't get a Fram. I use a Fram on my 66 Mustang 289, but not on my 1.8T.
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