And if you lift up the rubber boot thats over the input shaft to the rack theres a ZF stamp.
If I remember correctly, that hex is only a "cover". The actual adjuster lies beneath. ZF racks are all female torx.
if you have a 98 VR6, i know for a fact you would be needing a ZF type. The ZF type can be identified by the steering racks housing body. ZF has a waffle pattern and is made out of Aluminum.
If you ever ask the question which is better...ZF all the way. Bar FAR the best and most reliable.
There's a couple reasons I've found by taking one apart that failed within a year. I've never been happy with the steering response from a re-man. I found the center wear between the rack and pinion gears to be almost laughable. There was an eighth of an inch of slop between the teeth. That's why I could move the steering wheel from side to side while going straight and nothing would happen. The biggest problem I found was the abundance of rust pitting on the cylinder walls. Obviously hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic and moisture getting in causes that. Brand new seals won't help if the mating surface is pitted. I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might get one that's in good shape internally and never have a problem. Then again, you might get one that was sitting for ten years full of water before it was rebuilt.
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