I like Akebono Ceramic pads with Zimmerman rotors on my E92, some feel that you lose a little bite but I like them and they pretty much eliminate brake dust.
On a 428 both lower control forward arms including labor I believe $320 to $350
Brake pads brake, w e a r sensor and I believe both speed sensors under $400 no rotors were replaced.
I bought a Luk clutch kit that has given me no issues I think it’s like a stock replacement.
Parts cost about 500$ for front and rear brakes if do yourself.
So the headlights on my BMW are so much better than headlights I’ve had in previous cars. They illuminate the road so much better.
I replaced the run flats on my ‘24 X7 last week. I have 22” staggered wheels and replaced them with the Continental DWS06. Couldn’t be happier. This is my second X7 and I love the car, but I wanted more than 10k out of a set of tires.
I’ve been running conti DWS 06s on my X5/7s for years. Really like them. Good all weather traction, even in the snow. If you’re in lots of snow often then a true winter/summer setup is best as nothing beats snow tires, but for the usual storms we get in the Denver area they’re solid.
Di recente, le classiche bottigliette da 1L di G48 concentrato sono letteralmente sparite dalla circolazione e se andate a chiedere l'antigelo alla concessionaria, ve ne darà uno di colore verde.
Installed EBC SG two piece racing rotors and EBC RP1 pads on my M2 about three weeks ago. My rotors currently look like this (photos attached) after a recent track day - brakes felt like they were grinding while on track.
I changed the water pump on my e92 335i N54 2008 after it left me stranded 6 months ago. Approximately 2-3 months later, the car started running out of battery intermittently. At first it was once every month, then every 2 weeks, now it is every week. I've narrowed it down to the water pump staying on when I shut the car off, even when cold. The old water pump did this exact same thing before leaving me stranded. Both the old and new pumps are the all-aluminum Pierburg. I tried running the water pump test procedure with ISTA right after the pump kept running (after shutting down the car) and ISTA couldn't communicate with the pump. However, it did let me run other procedures, so that was not the problem. After letting the car sit down for 30 mins, ISTA was able to communicate with the pump and run the procedures. I have absolutely NO codes. My car does NOT have an IBS sensor, so that is not the problem. If I open a door, unlock the car, etc., the pump stops running. I'm about to purchase a new pump because I have troubleshot everything I could think of, but I can't imagine this brand new Pierburg pump is failing so prematurely (less than 5k kms).
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