Selling a set of Neuspeed RSe102 wheels (Hyper Black) and Pirelli P ZERO (PZ4) tires. These came off a 2015 Passat B7 and simply transformed the cars handling, very impressive tire and wheel setup.
brakes i would go with Zimmerman, ATE or Brembo rotors. now for pads go with Hawk HPS 5.0. the just very little and STOP. Plus they are easy on rotors. i know because i have them.
Pads: I like EBC Redstuff.
OEM plugs are good but NGK iridiums are just as good and cheaper. If your car is stock, which if memory served correctly it is, then use NGK BKR8EIX.
I just bought my old APR S3+ '03 Jetta back. It's been running these for 12 years. I seem to be fine w/ my AEBs and my BKR7e plugs.
I've run somewhere between half a dozen and a dozen oils over the last few years with oil analyses for all of them and both the analyses as well as my own personal observations favor the LM by a bit over other high quality full synthetics offered by Motul, Redline, etc. Specifically you want this one: https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2332-Leichtlauf-Engine/dp/B00LIC29H6
I've doubled my cam follower life, from 10k to 20k miles, by switching to LiquiMoly 5w40...and it costs less than Castrol full syn recommended by VW.
Replaced the leaky fuel pressure regulator with a new original Bosch FPR and the car runs fine again. Solved two issues, one is the rough idle and stalling.
I responded to a few Bilstein HD threads when I had my EVC, recommending against them. They were just too damn firm. Now I have an EV Weekender with Bilstein HDs (installed by PO) and they are almost just right (could be a tad firmer). I can't explain it. Did Bilstein change their valving at some point in time?
After I clear the code the CEL light stays off for about 15-20 miles or 2 cycles and then reappears. It has now been 400 miles since the timing chain work was done - plenty of time for the computer to 'adjust to the new part'. Although the idle has smoothed out a little bit, I'm afraid the car was not properly fixed.
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