I have 17x8 RPF1's with 245/40 R17 Hankook V12's and I have no problems with rubbing. Final et is 35 in the front and 30 in the rear on my car. I'm also lowered on ST Coils to about a 2 finger gap all around.
Have a '12 SE with 42,000 miles, most of which are from winter driving (think road gravel, salt and sand). We have no pits, and from having driven this same route for 30+ years, we have to conclude this glass is the best we've seen.
The best rotors for the money aren't slotted or drilled, is the honest truth. Drills and slots are supposedly there to relieve the film of gas that comes off of hot brake pads and forms a low-friction cushion between the surface of the rotor and the surface of the pad; the reality is that formulations in brake pad materials in the last twenty years have reduced this gas by 90+% and have rendered slotted or drilled rotors as an aesthetic option, not a performance option. If anything, slots and holes lead to increased brake pad wear, higher likelihood of rotor warp (I've experienced it first hand at the 2011 Fastivus track day riding shotgun in someone's MkIV R32...over the course of a few laps, his slotted rotors went from smooth to warped enough to be garbage; post-session inspection showed they visibly warped at the slot lines) and higher likelihood of cracking and failure around holes as well. What's more, depending on the pattern of holes around the face of the rotor, you'll develop uneven wear across the brake pad surface, actually reducing the area of pad-to-rotor surface contact area over time. Only the best (usually patented) hole patterns avoid this issue, Porsche's proprietary hole pattern being one I know of for sure. The half-slotted/half-drilled rotors are the worst because the holes are placed in a geometrically symmetrical way on the rotor face, not in a hole pattern that is best for the life of the pad...purely "for looks" and honestly a garbage choice. Brembo plain rotor OEM replacements are the most expensive direct-OEM replacement rotor but are, IMO, worth it (I put 80,000 miles including several track days on my 11.3" Brembo plains and they held up very nicely). ECS is selling Genuine VW/Audi rotors for $190 a front pair which are probably your best bet (OEM = Brembos, at least on my GTI...whatever they use, it's not a bad disc at all). Getting a disc with curved vanes instead of straight vanes should help with disc cooling and longetivity, as a general rule. As for pads, you'll get a lot of different opinions on that. I like my Hawk HPS a lot, I know people who adore their Ferodo DS2000s and DS2500s. You're going to hear rather mixed things about EBC Greenstuffs but there are a lot of people that like those too. Porterfield is a very reputable brand though I'm not sure if they offer anything that's especially street focused or if they tend to just market to HPDE/Autocross/Road Race use. I came to the conclusion a few years ago that Mintex is kinda cheap and not that great.
I run stock NGK with .026 gap as well and I've been anywhere from 10-18psi
I switched out my Hankook V4's to Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3...eliminated 75% of my wheelspin off the line (I should note that I have APR Stage I on the vehicle)...essentially has made reconsider getting the dogbone mount upgraded on the EOS. I've had the stock Conti's, Pirelli P4's, and the last set of Hankook's on...A/S3's blow them out of the water for grip.
After just a day I can tell I really like the SRE clutch kit. It seems like it engages just a touch quicker when letting the clutch out. The effort to push the clutch in has increased significantly. When rowing through the gears its pretty much like stock.
I put on A/S 3s about 3 weeks ago, 235/50R18. I am more than please. They are silent, and the ride is so much smoother than the factory Pirellis. Almost fells like I don't have sport suspension. Traction and stability are superb. Stopping on rain soaked roads is as if the road is dry.
Turbo ppl love it due to the shearing factor. Blows M1 out of the water for down here in Florida. Oil consumption went down in my 2.0T when using it.
The Girling60s weigh an absolute ton, but yield no performance advantage over a G60 setup. IMHO better street config is: - 22mm master cyl. Note that the later cabby MC is not 22mm. However the brake booster can accept one. - Corrado G60-compatible quality 11\" discs - Corrado G60 calipers and carriers - Good pads. I run Hawk HPS myself but there are several good choices - An appropriate set of adapters Personally I have rear discs and adjustable brake bias. I found it necessary to tune the balance after installing bigger, bitey-er brakes, and a heavier engine.
Meyle breaks. Squeaky as hell.
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