My RX8 also got pretty piss poor compression numbers. The only time it struggled with a start up was with literally the original 20 years old plugs it came with and I had to do multiple hot starts. It still started and carried on.
These on my RS3 are the first I've had that actually look nice.
In my Turbo, I use what many consider the best oil for gdi engines, pennzoil ultra platinum 5w/30 with the oem mazda filter. Although some aftermarket filters have better filter media, none meet the 22 psi bypass valve specs on the turbo engine.
I know you mentioned that all your seals were Mazda OEM but I only found success with a Mazda valve cover gasket and CAS o ring. Aftermarket kept leaking. OEM is stupid expensive where I am but I had no other choice and it seems to at least cause oil "sweat" instead of leak.
I just did my rear brakes! I forgot to plug one of the caliper motors back in. And tried to take it out of maintenance mode, it freaked out. But luckily it was fine after I reconnected the caliper.
My 2021 Mazda3 Turbo has classic thermostat failure symptoms: \n\n- Erratic warm-up (sometimes stuck cold, sometimes near overheating). \n- Upper radiator hose stays lukewarm even after 20+ mins of driving (revved to 3K RPM to test). \n- Housing burns hot, but hose never gets scalding\u2014clear sign of a stuck thermostat.
My battery died last July at exactly 2,5 year mark. Mazda OEM battery is a cheap trash and so are the replacements too.
How about my 2021 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve with a measly 14,000 miles and the dealer says the rear brakes are rusted and grooved with photo evidence.
I’m going to need a new windshield soon, that will be my 4th one.
I had a scratch on the windshield a few weeks in, then realized I’d have the same issue as I did in my previous Mazda: poor glass quality that scratches even with the windshield wipers.
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