First, if your alternator is putting out 13.8V while the car is running, your alternator is fine. Period. If your battery passes a load test after being fully charged, it is fine.
I recently purchased a 120 amp (refurbished) Bosch alternator at Advance Auto and kept the receipt. My original 90 amp alternator lasted 14 years before it stopped charging battery.
250,000 KM and still on the original alternator ( 1998 Audi A4 . Bosch 120 Amp Alternator ) . Had to replace a couple of bearings but that's it.
I'm a little biased towards the Z32- Winter mode Summer wheels I love how it drives, feels and looks. ~80k miles since 2003 I've replaced the alternator a couple times, high pressure power steering hose, a couple injectors, the clutch twice and many tires.
Singer alternator? Same thing with mine. You can look up the stock belt and find out the length of it and get the same exact belt but .5 or 1 inch shorter. That's what I'm doing.
Alternators can be rebuilt. YMMV of course, but I rebuilt the Bosch alternator on my old Mk1 VW Rabbit several times (brush would wear down) with no issues.
I replaced it with a Duralast Gold. After replacing the issue still existed so I replaced the alternator with an OEM Bosch remanufactured unit.
The only issues I had were with the alternator eating it's own bearings every couple of years or so and an intermittent cooling problem on the 2.8 that ultimately ended up being a blown head gasket.
it was D E D dead.
2 weeks ago, my 120amp Bosch crapped out on my '95 GLX. Decided the Duralast route wasn't a bad direction, being it's actually an OEM Bosch alternator, that Duralast performs the remanufacture on, with their own regulator, brushes, and bearings. It was also stated that they had numerous testing fazes performed after the rebuild. I had a 25% off coupon, and $40 in Autozone credit points. Walked out with the alternator for around $90, being the 120amp alternators are more expensive. Took care of the install, started it, power held, and she ran beautiful. Then a few minutes later, I started to hear a bearing scream. Was worried it was the alternator, as that was the only factor that changed, aside from disengaging the tensionar pulley and removing the serpentine belt during the alternator installation. 2 days later, cars sitting there warming up, hear the RPM's start to change, the gauge cluster display starts to dim, the door chime weakens out, and the car dies. Wouldn't you know, that Duralast alternator **** the bed with less than 10 miles on the rebuild.
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