Porsche Boxter calipers (non S). You retain OEM rotors you just need to source carriers (I know someone makes them just can't remember) and lines. Hands down best bang for buck and awesome performance. You save a bunch of weight and move to a fixed 4 piston caliper on each side.
Most parts from a reputable rebuilder such as Raybestos will be just fine. I've found aftermarket can be superior in some ways to "OEM" as well, since it's fairly likely that Motorcraft rebuilds those calipers, too.
Chrysler has a "kit" that is designed for the brake-swap (Teves -> Akebono) TSB has that everything you need apart from rotors - new calipers, brackets and pads, plus all hardware. See what you dealer's price is, when it first came out it was crazy cheap (like $100), it's a bit more now but even then when I bought the kit it was still cheaper than buying remanufactured calipers and brackets.
Mounted the 996tt calipers this past weekend. I can say they offer more clearance than the 17z's. Fat fives can be used with no spacer. It's a tight fit but it works. Brake pedal is nice a firm. Much firmer than the 17z calipers.
The brackets I ordered from usrt bolt up to the boxster red rears.... As to whether rear boxster calipers work or not I've done and uses the calculator several times and it is a 15% increase in brake power..
Stock brakes are most excellent for doing a single, high speed, emergency stop. They are designed around that. If you plan on driving the car quite aggressively, or tracking it, you'll need to improve upon the stock setup. Good pads, a flush with good fluid, and stainless lines will do wonder for both fade resistance and pedal feel. You don't need big Brembos or an aftermarket caliper to track a car, and you can even aggressively track a car with improved stock brakes; you just need to adjust your driving style. In general, aftermarket calipers are largely for show, but hey...if you're going to splurge on something that isn't \"necessary\", it might as well be your brakes versus something else!
Ok, so i got them fitted yesterday. I used the following: - caliper carripers from Epytec for the cayenne zr18 caliper for mk4 : http://www.epytec.de/modelle/vw/gol...achse/1293/adapter-porsche-bremssattel-audi-tt-a3-vw-golf-4-polo-9n-bora?c=1250 - braided brake hoses from Epytec for porsche calipers: http://www.epytec.de/kategorien/bre...ng-vw-golf-4-r32-audi-a3-s3-a1-porsche-brembo-ttrs-polo-9n-bremsen-umbau?c=1730 - regular ATE brake pads - EBC R32 Brake discs - Porsche Cayenne ZR18 calipers I ended up having to put my 20mm spacers from the back wheels to the front, because the 10mm ones didn't clear the caliper. The epytec hardware is really good quality stuff, comes with all necesary german TUV paperwork to be able get the brakes \"registered\". I drove a total of 10 miles, and as a first impression, the pedal is kind of spongy and goes down pretty low. I will definitely look into upgrading to a 25.4mm M/C. I will let you guys know more after the brakes get seated in properly and do a really good brake bleeding to a better brake fluid.
i have 16" RS's and my willwoods barely and i mean BARELY clear with a 10.5mm spacer...
ok so last weekend i did 312mm rotors, porsche boxster calipers and stainless lines. i had g60 brakes previous. i bled them out nooooooo air. drove the car and expected to stand it on it nose. brakes no better than what i had, maybe worse.
On my '93 I think I've deduced it's the crappy Girling calipers' slide guide pins being worn and allowing for some play in the calipers or it's just a crap design.
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