Z1 Offroad has an OEM Nissan remanufactured for a good price, that's I what I went with.
Most of my experience is from the Infiniti side of the family, but I replaced an alternator on all my higher mileage vehicles. In general, the diode packs in Nissan alternators go out after about 150k miles or so.
If you don\u2019t have huge power requirements and are happy with the standard amperage then just grab an NA Z32 alternator from a wrecker and modify the tensioner bolt to suit.
Drove it for a day and the alternator crapped out. Installed a new one asap.
My car started experiencing the same issue as yours. Randomly lose power, no acceleration, give jump start, two days later, the same issue. Had to have it towed to Nissan. Yes, long story short, it does need a genuine OEM Alternator and OEM Battery! For some reason, the 3rd party parts are not as effective in the product. Once placed in my Nissan, it was commented there have been no issues.
Replaced the alternator - twice. The second one failed as a result of a jump start scorching a relay in the voltage :-( Replaced the starter (in 2024), First alternator failed at 49K miles - oddly, when the car came out of the shop, the oil light came on and they found debris in the pick up so I got a new long block (under warranty so I suspect VOA knew of some defect for that model/year). Had one strut bearing fail at about 90K miles. I also had the AC recharged - car actually came from the factory with too much pressure (would ice up on humid days). I've stuck to dealer maintenance for everything except the strut repair and the usual annual CC alignments (well documented issue...) and keep all fluids (coolant/brakes/DSG) fresh. My car is still a daily driver - I'm probably due another battery soon but it runs great. I'm tempted to freshen the struts and control arms and add a rear sway bar - and possibly a tune, but I also see a Golf R in my future! I've run 3 other cars to 250K miles (Volvo 850, Highlander and an Audi 4KQ) and I don't see any reason why the dub can't get to 200K+ particularly if you keep up with a full maintenance plan. You may need to have some carbon blasting done at 100K, have the timing chain tension and service the PCV (leaving that too long leads to the carbon build up in the DI engines) but those are like 50K mile intervals
The voltage regulator on the alternator is bad.
I bought a remanufactured alternator from Autozone and it did not work. I then bought an amazon alternator. It went out 2 weeks later. I then bought the OEM Nissan alternator. I've not had a problem since (6 months)
I just put a new alternator and the batty is dead again but when I jump it the car run fine until the next .morning I am going Crazy trying to figure this.
I owned one for about a year. Loved the car, wish I could have kept it. That being said, it was only in drivable condition for about half the time I owned it. I replaced the alternator, fixed the air suspension, redid some vacuum lines, tried to repair the front diff, and that's where I gave up.
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