Sorry for the late reply. just to go ahead and close this out, it was a bad alternator. Took the 400 dollar hit to my wallet and bought a new one. Spent a few hours yesterday replacing it. So far I've driven it about 30 miles without the battery light coming back on. Thanks everyone for the help.
I'm using a MK2 Golf alternator. It has the correct mount width, and has the right frame to mate up with the nice rack and pinion style adjustment bracket also from the MK2 Golf.
The tech who replaced my alternator (@10K mi) left his permanent fingerprints on my hood...have to try to buff it out. Apart from the bad alternator documented in another thread (hopefully a one-off), the car has been great (especially in winter) - no leaks, no sunroof issues, buzzing, rattling, vibrations, etc.
I purchased a 2002 Nissan Quest alternator for my 2002 Xterra. It bolts right up. 120 amps instead of 80 amps.
First, if your alternator is putting out 13.8V while the car is running, your alternator is fine. Period. If your battery passes a load test after being fully charged, it is fine.
I'm a little biased towards the Z32- Winter mode Summer wheels I love how it drives, feels and looks. ~80k miles since 2003 I've replaced the alternator a couple times, high pressure power steering hose, a couple injectors, the clutch twice and many tires.
okay so i installed an alternator in my car yesterday, boosted it, let the battery charge a bit, removed jumpers...car stalled.
Upon only 3 days of ownership, the alternator went out due to the battery going bad, that took out the internal voltage regulator.
I had an issue on my 88 300ZX where a failed alternator burned out the ALT link. This is a connection between the alternator and the battery.
the car is a 1996 golf gl, 5 speed, with A/C (this is relevant to the alternator spec) Original problem, car not charging and replacement alternators were no good
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