Hawk HPS with the rear pads almost worn & the front pads were about 70% worn---new rotors all around. Just for kicks, I decided to get ATE Slotted rotors, tyrol caliper bushings & a fresh fluid flush....
i have been told at the dealer that new thickness is approx 25 mm, and replacement size is 23 mm... VW recommends they be done together, but backyard experts & penny pinchers feel that it isn't necessary...... I would never take a chance for the $200 or so that rotors cost it just isn't worth it. if you can't afford $200 for the most critical safety system on your car, perhaps you should take the bus until you can... Very small diameter diferences cause degradation of brake performance, witness when the pads are half worn how low the fluid goes down....that is compensating for the pad wear and ROTOR wear as well......tires & brakes are all that saves your butt in the day-to-day world of insanity out there, don't be foolish.
Contrary to what some people think, the rotors are designed to be replaced when the pads have fully worn down. The tolerance for allowable thickness on our rotors is very small. I don't know the exact number off the top of my head, but IIRC the front rotors on your Jetta are 25mm thick when brand new and the minimum thickness is 23mm. That's not a lot of wiggle room. When the pads are fully gone the rotors will be very close to minimum thickness. You can mic the rotors to test the thickness, but made sure you get past the \"lip\" on the very edge of the rotor or you will get a false reading. Personally, I say don't mess around with brakes. If you only have a few thousand miles on the rotor, than fine - keep it. But if the pads are gone, the rotors are gone too. On a somewhat related note, I just did the brakes on a 2006 Mini for a friend of mine. The tolerance between min and max thickness was only 1.6mm on the front rotors! That's tight.
When I changed the original rotors on my Jetta they required a hell of a fight to get them off. I put anti-sieze on the hub to ensure that would not happen again. When I changed them this past weekend, the rotors came off no problem at all which was nice.
I just bought and am DIY installing a set of Ate PremiumOne discs and pads for the front on my wagon. They've got a coating similar to the original rotors - I'll report back once I get 'em on.
I'm running PBR Delux pads, rotors are Brembo Fronts, ATE rears. Got whole set up for around $225-250 from GetCoolParts a year or so ago..they often have sales...and were doing so on the rotors at the time so I'm sure prices now are a bit more. Front pads made some noise...not squeal, more like a rattle (yes I double checked the anti rattle clips)...just about the time I was gonna pull the pads and apply anti rattle shims...problem went away...been working great ever since. There is rust on the nonbraking surfaces, but no staining etc. so I'm not goin to the trouble of painting the rotor hats etc.
I looked at the marketplace on Passatworld and saw the deal on Brembo plainface rotors and PBR pads. I passed on the pads because of several comments about rattle/squeal. I passed on the Brembos because I was told in an email by the vendor that they aren't treated for rust. I went with Ate pads and Ate Premium One rotors from getcoolparts.com (free shipping!). They have a MetaCote rust preventative coating. Read about them here : Ate PremiumOne Description. I haven't installed them yet, so I can't comment on noise yet. But the coating sounds promising.
It was brought in by another shop that installed rear brake pads and rotors.
Just did a brake job, new ATE OEM rotors up front with new Hawk HPS pads. Just did the run to bed them in, and I'm hearing a wierd noise. When I step on the brakes at a moderate or heavy level I hear kind of a "plunking" noise, I guess you could call it. It has a rhythm that changes with the speed of the car (i.e. the plunking slows down as the wheels slow down).
Unfortunately the problem is inherent in the design of the rotors. Not in where they were produced. You can put the best rotors in the world on that car and they will still warp. Vw/Chrysler would need to spec a larger and thicker rotor to help dissipate heat properly. All aftermarkets will make the rotor to fit, based on the crappy oem specs. So, get used to having new rotors put on...because recall or not, Chrysler still needs to redesign that rotor. FYI, I'm in the same boat as you guys! These rotors suck!
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