The best solution I have found is to use slotted rotors--cryo treatment typically gets me 10K more miles before hard spots develop and I get a pedal vibration--and an aggressive pad without any ceramics. My solution is to use the best quality slotted rotor I can find, cryo treatment preferred, and use either a Wilwood BP-10/20 pad or a Project Mu NS brake pad. I found those two pads were aggressive enough to have great stopping power and would wear out the rotor at the same rate the pad wore down.
I personally use Project Mu HC+800 for their fantastic cold bite and high temp resistance.
I have Bendix/Zimmerman rotors and stock ATE/Brembo SM pads and pound the living s**t out of the brakes on Track Days and HPDE ( instructor ). Other than a bit of fade after about 6 laps of HARD braking I've had zero issues. Pad life and condition is still excellent.
I'm definitely sold on ATE parts. They are the OEM on my GTI and have 49,000 miles on all the original pads and rotors, plenty of life left.
Some new brakes, as the old ones are, well old & warped! ATE POwer disc's front & rear.
I used ATE pads, ECS Slotted Front Rotors/plain faced rears, and did a brake flush with ATE Type 200 fluid. Now that my brakes are good and bedded, I can tell there's a significant improvement especially in the rain.
I had it resurfaced and changed the pads to ATE ceramic pads. Now all my problem are solved.
i had ATE with mintex red pads, but they warped in abotu 9 months... prob due to excessive braking. now i put on the zimmermans. they look great on the car, and im happy with the braking so far, though its only been 1 week.
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