I did Project MU B force pads. DBA 4000 rotors, Stop tech stainless steel brake lines, Motul 660 brake fluid, radium brake booster brace(a must). Make sure to set those pads in the correct sequence and they gonna rip your face off bud! I had 6 piston brembos also, what a difference!
I do not recommend these for the street, however the track performance is off the charts.
They’re track/race pads, but I rarely track my car. It’s not a daily, just a fun weekend car, but I find the pad performance to be amazing and they’re not noisy like everyone says they would be.
However, the biggest difference I've noticed was going from good brake pads to great ones. I recommend anything by Project Mu (I use their RC09 "Club Racer")
When I replaced the front pads and rotors, I went with the same OEM rotors from Brembo but upgraded to Project Mu Type NS-C pads. I have not yet swapped rears but I can see that there is significantly less dust with Project Mu pads and no squeal. Stopping power is great and I havent had issues.
The Jurid pads did work. They were 13.8mm that seems to be the key.
I have project Mu pads and rotors, front and back on my 33 GTR. They’re fantastic products. But be warned, they’re gonna squeak. Sometimes badly. Having said that, it’s *because they’re good* that they squeak. They’re pretty much racing brakes, and if you’re not hearing them up high enough, they’re gonna squeak. So be prepared for that.
I got PMu Street Comp pads and rotors on mine, about a couple weeks ago. They are solid, definitely highly recommend the brand.
The pads were about 60% worn and hard large metal shards embedded in them and the rotors have always been badly grooved from day 1. This suggest that its more likely the rotor that is a soft material. Once there are metal shards in the pads that will cause uneven friction and promote brake grab and pulsing. I replaced the pads and the \u201cwarp\u201d pulsing has gone completely, but I suspect the new pads will also eventually pick up metal shards from the rotor. The other point is in case people want to avoid factory pads is that the front pads are Jurid and the rears ATE. I ve replaced all with Padid.
When I picked her up, I was told my front and rear brake pads are all down 1mm already. At this rate I’ll likely need to replace them around 15k. I thought this made sense for the front pads since they’re the JURID high performance ones, but the rears being worn that much seemed strange. I don’t drive fast/brake hard/etc, never track, or do anything otherwise that should wear my brakes prematurely.
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