Oil filter Fram or K&N

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K&N Oil filter

DIY 7500mi interval engine oil using 5qt bottle of Mobil1 0w-20 fuel economy oil (takes the whole thing), a K&N HP-1008 filter (why, because it's so easy to wrench off every time), and a new 9956-41-400 aluminum washer.

Pros: easy to wrench off
Part number: HP1008
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K&N Oil filter

I’ve been using K&N air and oil filters in mine for ten years. I run nothing else and will always run K&N. I’m happy with mine. Oil filter number HP1008. I would recommend. The one inch nut on top is often very helpful getting the filter out. I also run K&N oil and air filters in every vehicle I’ve ever owned. There is a noticeable difference in throttle response for the air filter, but I’ve never seen a difference good or bad in the oil filters.

Pros: easy to remove, reliable
Vehicle: Mazda
Part number: HP1008
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Fram Oil filter

Use the right oil from Walmart or whatever and I used a fram oil filter. I used a higher end one then the standard orange box one. Never had any issues.

Pros: no issues
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K&N Oil filter

Brand is personal preference tbh.. ive seen good and bad reviews with royal purple but no evidence that its actually bad. My main 2 that i use are Delo 15W-40 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Turbo Diesel oil and when thats sold out i run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15w-40. And i put a K&N oil filter every time, changing oil at 5K miles and ive had no issues using it as a daily and autocross car. Backroads racing on the weekends, roadtrips, some drifting. Got 271K miles on it and no motor issues.

Pros: no motor issues
Vehicle: BMW
Mileage: 271000 km
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Fram Oil filter

I typically go with Mobil 1. Fram has been manufacturing filters that use a little flap of tin for the bypass spring which comes on during high oil pressure situations, and at least in Canada i have seen these fail quite early. And not one or two, but closer to 3/10 i have cut open. I should cut more open as my observations are now a bit dated but in my opinion if it has a actual bypass spring inside of it, they will be more effective in the long run since the ones with a actual bypass spring inside of the filter i have personally never seen one fail yet.

And with filter media, you want it to be the vacuum bag. The canister that simply catches the most crap is not exactly the smallest micron rating, but the filter that returns to normal operation reliably when the vehicle hits operating temperature. And if that filter seems too expensive to run, then you really cannot afford to replace the engine.

Edit: Also it is worth checking out your factory supplied oil filter as they usually spring the bypass correctly for the designed engine oil pressure.

Pros: reliable operation, good filter media
Cons: tin bypass spring fails
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Fram Oil filter
JimmyTheDoor
Rating 1.0
  • Warning light:

I used a FRAM oil filter on the car at my last oil change and it turns out it collapsed internally triggering a low engine oil pressure to my ECU. The garage (VW/Audi/Porsche specialized) told me to never use anything other than Mann filters on my GTI since everything else is either gonna collapse or be more expensive than the Mann for no added benefits.

Cons: collapsed internally, low oil pressure
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Fram Oil filter
csrtlk2
Rating 0.5
  • Leaks:

I think I tried using a Fram filter on my '99 truck once, and the filter was designed ever so slightly differently and as a result I lost all my oil in a week.

Cons: lost all oil, poor design
Vehicle: Ford Ranger
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