I replaced the front pads with some bendix 4wd pads and machined the rotors, was a noticeable improvement straight away. I also flushed the brake fluid at the same time.
for the street I've found the basic RockAuto/Centric shit to be perfectly fine. Even basic Centric blanks can handle track use at (admittedly pathetically low) stock power.
The Dunlop Direzza ZIII is worth looking into. A close friend has half a season of autocross and 4 time trial events (So about 17 twenty to 30 minute long sessions) on his ZIII in a 2013 NC and they still have life left. For autocross they're basically a less grippy Re-71R, but they come into their own on track.
I use only Redline for all my oils-fluids. For engine oil, I have used 10w40 consistently.
I've switched to Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 which seem to do better wrt oil pressure.
Hitting 30k on my set on my 2015 Mazda6 rotated at every oil change (7k miles). Go ahead and pay less. You aren't cheaping out.
I have them on my 2017 Mazda 6. I have no issues with the tires. At 70mph there is very little road noise. They feel a little softer then the Dunlops. They kind of remind me of the Cooper CS5 I had on my old Mazda 6.
I had a 2010 for nearly 6 years. 3 sets of rear shocks in that time. Otherwise it was perfect.
I hated them on the base Turbo hatchback I had previously. Grip was awful in the rain once temperatures dropped.
I just got my first experience on the Toyos this morning in some snow here in Virginia. The Toyos were really pretty awful :-(. They're fine for getting going and driving around - in fact, even starting off a hill was really no issue, but God help you if you have to stop quickly...because they wont. It was a slide-fest even with just a thin layer of snow.
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