On my eclipse gs sport I've put in a racing header and cold air intake, (although my tuner said the stock intake is actually better than any aftermarket stuff because of where the breather is located). I also had a custom exhaust made with magnaflow mufflers.
I'm currently at 189,177 miles on my original timing chain on my 2012 Lancer GT.
I swear by NWB graphite, can last at least two years basta orig.
NWB design wiper blade banana type.(quiet no screeching sound)
I tracked an EVO for about 10 years and went through just about every modification you could making the car more reliable and faster. I started out with carbotech xp10 front and xp8 in the rear. Those are great beginner pads with amazing initial bite and a lot of modulation but they will wear quick and they're expensive. Also, once you start compressing your brake zones you'll find they don't have quite the amount of bite needed.After carbotax I went through a bunch of different pads from ferrodo, to hawk to stop tech to pfc and probably a bunch more in between. Ultimately I settled on hawk DTC 60s front and rear.For my driving style the DTC 60 provided amazing initial bite and release without ever overheating, even on Hoosiers. They also lasted really long, almost as long as the pfc08 which is an endurance pad.
Mine has 130k miles on original chain.
I aswell have an evo 9 with the same tires and similar weight. I run hawk dtc 70s in the front and dtc 60s in the rear. If you do not mind swapping pads before the events I love these pads. They will make a lot of noise driving around town tho. I get about 8 to 10 days out of a set of front pads and about 2 to 3 seasons out of a set of rears.
L300 4d56 engine - matagal masira nakakinis. ????
Pero on a serious note: alternator mabilis masira
Cosmetically they are nice, but functionally they suck.
After the copper OEM radiator broke I replaced it with a nissens aluminum radiator now the thermostat never hits operating temperature, I changed the thermostat to what the book wanted which was a 190 degree thermostat but even still the gauge doesn't go up all the way. I replaced one of the senors and the main coolant temperature sensor but still it doesn't go all the way up. On top of that it takes the gauge a good 3 minutes just to move slightly. Doesn't need to be fix probably but still annoys me
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