I've done the following and confirmed that they seem to be working: Windows up/down with remote. Mirror dips in reverse and returns; returns a little high but that seems to be a known issue without the folding mirrors w/memory.
Ended up picking up the MR2 mk3 all in one unit and will be plumbing it up to the steering rack, using the VSS signal to control the pump. I am pretty excited about this as some weight will be eliminated and shifted back as well.
I have a Mishimoto race, and it's doing it's job really good.
New starter (Bosch) (Late 2017)
I also upgraded brakes to Optimal brand e-cote rotors and EBC Red street/performance pads. A nice improvement in brake feel and the new rotors look better, but hardly necessary.
I have become a BIG fan of yellow top optima batteries. Mine tests out OVER 1000 CCA (only about a year old) sealed- Acid can never leak out. Deep cycle, you can run it dead without damage. Good warranty, The the batteries are built to take extreme vibrations, and have a superior design to connect the plates inside with a more solid connection.
Since last time you saw it I upgraded the brakes to 312mm rotors with ATE 57 calipers in front and 256mm disk brakes in the rear and replaced the heavy Mercedes replica 18" wheels with BBS RK's in 8J 17 wrapped in sticky kumho KU-36 rubber.
Right now I'm running [General Tire Altimax R43s](http://generaltire.com/tires/passenger-and-minivan/altimax-rt43). Most people aren't familiar with General, even if they are one of the oldest tire companies out there.
I ha dto change my tires e-brake, e-brake lines, brakes rotors, rear subframe bushings and I have 8 codes on my car sayin I now have electicall problems.
Currently I actually own a 2005 V8 and it has been just short of a nightmare to maintain. First was the battery($400) then the headlights($200) then the Thermostat($900), then the horn($80) then timing belt, water pump, stripped drain plug, etc all within a year.
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