Unfortunately, as you can see from how much of it is parts, an OEM windshield is expensive on modern cars. It\u2019s usually worth it, as the third party windshields may not look different, but they often sound different, as Ford is increasing their use of acoustic glass
I had the same problem on my 2021gt500 and the dealer put in new pads, solved the problem.
We bought a 2011 Ford Focus everything looked good, drove well. I took it in for a service and front brake pads were down to 2mm. Cost me $1050 for an essential service and repair but now I have peace of mind.
I did get an extended warranty on the mach e for $1,700 to try and hedge bets, no issues yet that weren't covered by Ford (they replaced rotors and the glass roof under TSBs).
Safelite replaced it with genuine Ford OEM glass, complete with the 75th Anniversary badging on the glass. The guy that did my glass was an absolute pro, and I can't tell the difference between the original and replacement.
Trying to replace my water pump on my 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L (flex fuel). I can’t find a video that performs this repair on my model; 4cylinders and v6 4.0 yes, but not the 3.0. There’s 12 bolts on the WPump, 11 are EZPZ, one is behind something else. I’ve got everything off except for one bolt that is stuck behind the “mount” for the pulley tensioner/AC compressor. It’s not the power steering pump, it’s not the AC compressor, and it’s not the pulley tensioner - *it’s what all 3 of these things are mounted too.* I’ve loosened 3 bolts that seem to mount this “mount” to the engine block, but I must be missing 1+, as it won’t budge.
I know how to repair windshield chips to prevent them from spreading myself, but as soon as it chips in the bronco, the cracks spread like wildfire and are >6” before I get home!
The only vehicle I\u2019ve owned that burned a noticeable amount of oil was my 85 5.0 Mustang with a bad oil pump. It lost oil pressure when it warmed up and being a dumb high school kid, I just kept driving it.
Sadly, I've gone through two water pumps on my 2012 Ford Explorer.
This is why I’ve avoided the 3.5/3.7 Duratec engines in transverse (front wheel drive) platforms. It’s just fine in rear wheel drive applications as those use an external pump driven by the serpentine belt.
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