887 votes
Use some seafoam in the oil before the oil change to clean deposits up. I use Rotella T6 5w40 with a high quality fram filter, XG16 if I remember correctly (avoid the orange). High zinc content in the oil is good for the lifters in these engines and the 40 is good for a high mileage engine with a wearing oil pump.
Fram actually makes the OEM Honda filters. The OEM filter is exactly the same as the Fram Tough Guard, just painted differently. The Fram Ultra is genuinely an awesome filter.
I always change my own engine air filter, cabin filter, and until recently the oil and filter (I'm also partial to Fram). The cabin filter is sooooo much easier to change that on my first Honda - 1989 Accord.
We ran only Fram (PH-8A) on our 1971 Ford LTD until the 1990s when we sold the car with 230K miles on it, and it had just started a light main crank bearing knock.
I used a Fram filter on my VW and it developed a knocking ticking sound lol. Switched it out for a Mann and it was fine.
I use the Fram Synthetic Endurance. It’s a super high quality filter blessed by all the cognescenti at bobistheoilguy.com.???? Definitely not the Fram orange cans from years ago.
I use Pennzoil Platinum and Fram Ultra filters.
Ok... so as a DIY mechanic, how tight am I SUPPOSED to tighten oil filters? The box says 1 turn after gasket contact, so that's what I do. It gets pretty tight by the end of a full turn, but I'm still able to do it with my hand (so long as it has one of those rubber grip coated bottoms, like the Fram Tough-Guard). I never have to use a wrench to get it to that point, but it takes about all my hand grip strength to do so. Taking them off is usually requiring a strap wrench, and sometimes it dents/crushes the casing.
When I first started to change my own oil I didn't have the proper wrench and just hand tightened my filter on. Drove like 10k on that and didn't have any issues.
I’ve worked on Subarus for over 20 years now and almost every blowed engine has a fram oil filter on it. Easily 75%
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