Just discussed this last week. I side with my VW dealer on it. They recommend just replacing the rotors, its really not that much more than having them turned, considering you almost guarantee no pulsation, no shimmy or shudder and more even brake wear.
Hi Ed I just had my timing belt (tensioner, rollers, cam seals), water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, tensioner, and rollers replaced by a very good independent for $2300 on my 04 with 78K miles. The belt that came off showed no degradation and looked fine but I feel a lot better having it done.
The cross flow (ABA) has bigger ports, especially the intake side! I mean sided by side in my garage, instantly noticeably bigger, like it would take immense porting to get a PG to ABA size.
On the other hand, head was fully rebuilt. Previous owner(s) were probably changing oil every 50.000miles, with cheapest one available, which led to all sorts of gunk accumulating on valve guides, finally making it impossible for valves to shut completely. Resurfaced it, put in new valves, guides, seales... Set of gaskets and head bolts later, it fired up.
A quick bench test revealed the damping rate of the replacement shocks to feel approximately twice that of the originals, which were way too soft even for daily driving over bad surfaces.
So, fitted most of the new bushings to the front suspension. Still need to do some of the things, but at least most of it is done.
I had the exact same thing happen on my '13 CC just last month. As one post noted, it turned out to be a bad ABS sensor in the rear right.
When I had mine I had to replace the alternator just outside of warranty.
I have my distortion in my golf R smack in my field of view. it's bad and super distracting. the bad news is my replacement glass is worse.
I have a few friends who have MK7 GTI's and all of them complain about their stock brakes on the base model GTI, I wouldn't consider spending money on these units as your not really gaining anything.
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