Nissan use to be good
Vehicle:
Nissan
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The alternator quit on my 2020 Nissan Sentra, and there were NO aftermarket options for it. The dealership wanted $900, JUST for the alternator, so I can actually believe their price.
Pros: believable price
Cons: no aftermarket options
Vehicle:
Nissan Sentra
Denso remanufactured is solid I’ve had an alternator on my fzj-80 as well as a ac compressor both solid and that’s like 6 years ago
Pros: solid, good experience
Actively replacing our alternator now, I used this video to confirm that it was the same sound.
Vehicle:
BMW
I just went over 195,000 miles while I've driven it over 26,000 miles this year with the only failures being the original 15 year old Bosch alternator and the spark plugs needing to be replaced.
Pros: motor itself is reliable
Cons: alternator needed replacement
Vehicle:
Volkswagen Jetta
Mileage: 313821 km
I tried a Bosch reman from Rockauto on my Civic. Lasted about two years then the rear bearing starting squeaking.
Pros: lasted about two years
Cons: rear bearing squeaking
Vehicle:
Honda Civic
This was the only non oe product in my car. When mine went it went . There weren\u2019t any bmw ones available for love nor money at the time. I get 13.8 out of mine as well. Can been fine for 12 months.
Pros: fine for 12 months
Cons: non oe product
Got a remanufactures duralast alternator. Worked for about a week and the died.
Cons: died quickly, short lifespan
My 2017 Mazda 3 touring felt like it was cursed. I had the direct high pressure fuel pump injector go out like 1.5 years after purchase. About 2k for just that repair. Thought that was the end of it until the following year where there was a persistent evap problem that nobody could find, despite clearing the code it wouldn’t pass smog. One smoke test and several hundred dollars in appointments later they found the smallest leak from one of the hoses, replaced it and passed smog. Then the check engine light saga started, at first we thought it was the battery/alrernator until after replacing both it kept happening. Turns out that was the start of my catalytic going out(76k miles exactly). Idk if it’s Stockholm syndrome but i did trade it in for a new Mazda. Hoping the curse has been lifted.
Pros: passed smog after repair
Cons: fuel pump injector failure, evap problem, check engine light, catalytic converter failure
Vehicle:
Mazda
Mileage: 76000 km
It starts out with flickering headlights and internal lights, the check engine light pops on, and sometimes it will idle rough when this is happening and sometimes even pop out of gear. I had a warranty and the dealership kept insisting it was the alternator, to the point they changed it 3 times! They even put in an OEM alternator and changed my transmission. They had my car for MONTHS. They had a Hyundai roadside mechanic on a Zoom call and figured out it was a ground. It drove fine for a couple years, and then the same things started happening. But this time, it even went in lame mode at one point. Had to put something in the shifter to unlock it and drive it, but no turn signals or windows or anything else would work. Just last week, a new battery and ground strap were installed. And the only codes it was throwing were for a bad battery, before it was changed. And she was driving great! I hit a bump yesterday, and it all started all over again. Flickering lights, idling rough, and check engine light came on.
Pros: drove fine for years, battery/ground strap fixed
Cons: flickering lights, check engine light, rough idle, popping out of gear, lame mode, no turn signals/w
Vehicle:
Hyundai Veloster
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