I did Project MU B force pads. DBA 4000 rotors, Stop tech stainless steel brake lines, Motul 660 brake fluid, radium brake booster brace(a must). Make sure to set those pads in the correct sequence and they gonna rip your face off bud! I had 6 piston brembos also, what a difference!
I run yellows and they are brilliant. The stopping distance is about 50% more. Been doing a fair bit of miles and they dont seem to be wearing out excessively. I wouldnt go for anything more aggressive for daily use though you need cold stopping power for when somone pull into your lane during long motorway trips in the rain.
I always buy from Rockauto, but check if the part is on Amazon for comparable price for the free shipping. With brake parts especially I highly recommend buying the best you can afford. Cheap pads and rotors will be noisier and more likely to warp and give vibration when braking. The cheapest pads are also usually bonded meaning the friction material is only glued onto the backing plate, and I’ve seen them separate, especially a risk if you drive where rust is an issue. Also cheap pads don’t always include abutment clips and good shims.
I got cross drilled, and slotted rotors, with ceramic brake pads(for the front!) for ~$300……really cut down on brake dust! 15,000mi on windy, steeply graded roads, and my pads look like the day they were installed!
My oem S6 6 piston brembos with EBC redstuff pads are great
I just changed my rear pads and rotors. Bought raybestos from rockauto. $80 shipped.
For brakes though, I've used Powerstop Z17 and they're solid parts.
I've heard good things about Akebono pads, but I'm curious how they compare to other options (Bosch QuietCast, PowerStop, Raybestos, etc.)
Up for sale are new Ferodo DS2500 brake pads for an MK7 Golf R. I had bought these to replace my noisy new Hawk pads, but have decided to just stick with the noisy hawk pads.
Dba xp pads with dba t3 rotors, but wouldn't use them again they dust like hell
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