vs
Battery Tesla or Duralast
Ich fahre ein Tesla Model S aus 2016 und habe nun die 233.000km passiert. Akku, Motoren und auch Bremsen noch original. Reparaturen: 3 Türgriffe, ein Querlenker, 1 Rückfahrkammera.
Pros: original battery, original motors, original brakes
Cons: door handles, control arm, camera replaced
Mileage: 233000 km
Mein Vater fährt seinen Tesla S jetzt seit knapp 12 Jahren und der ist immer noch top. Er meckert zwar über ein paar Sachen, aber das ist echt meckern auf hohem Niveau und hat wenig mit der Antriebsart zu tun. Nur Austausch von Verschleißteilen und Kleinigkeiten wie Fensterheber. Batterie hat glaub ich um die 90% SoH.
Pros: still top, good battery health
Cons: minor issues
Hoffe ich kann mein Model 3 LFP noch lange fahren. Akkugesundheit war letztes Jahr noch bei ~91%, mache mich aber nicht verrückt. Garantie auf Akku und Antrieb gilt eh noch bis Ende Dezember 2028. Hab jetzt nach knapp 5 Jahren bisher nur für neue Scheibenwischer, Innenraumfilter und Bremsflüssigkeit messen bezahlt. Mittlerweile hab ich 88Tkm auf der Uhr.
Pros: good battery health, low maintenance
Mileage: 88000 km
Mein Tesla Model X hat jetzt 300k km und läuft noch wie am ersten Tag (2018). Batterie noch so bei 83%
Pros: runs like new, good battery health
Mileage: 300000 km
I have a 22 Model 3 RWD although with a little less mileage (~50k)... haven't done a health test or anything but it's still reporting somewhere between 417 and 410 on a full charge, depending on "factors". But it did the same when I bought it 2 years ago. In real world usage, can't tell you that I've noticed any.
Pros: good battery health
Mileage: 50000 km
For an all-arounder, the Tesla Highland refresh LR RWD is likely the answer. OOSR tested it and got 4.9 miles per kWh (204 Wh/mile) on their 70 mph highway cruising test, besting a Lucid Air Grand Touring by almost 15%.
Pros: 4.9 miles per kWh
Just had a 5yo Napa battery die, put a new Duralast Platinum Elite in there, back to running normal except 2 things: 1/ Random engine fan activation seems to be what killed the previous battery. Still happening.
Pros: back to running normal
Cons: random fan activation, battery died
Vehicle:
Volkswagen Golf
Drive a 2018 Nissan Rogue, about 80k miles. Have a Duralast Gold battery from Oct 2023, but live in central Texas where I hear batteries don't last as long.
Vehicle:
Nissan
Mileage: 128747 km
Duralast is almost always johnson controls, made in mexico.
Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn\u2019t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.\n\nBattery tested good. Starter tested good.\nBut the alternator failed, specifically the charging current test.
Cons: alternator failed charging test
Vehicle:
Mazda
Mileage: 31000 km
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