I have project Mu pads and rotors, front and back on my 33 GTR. They’re fantastic products. But be warned, they’re gonna squeak. Sometimes badly. Having said that, it’s *because they’re good* that they squeak. They’re pretty much racing brakes, and if you’re not hearing them up high enough, they’re gonna squeak. So be prepared for that.
I got PMu Street Comp pads and rotors on mine, about a couple weeks ago. They are solid, definitely highly recommend the brand.
Toyota hybrids have no starter, no belts, no alternator to wear out and the brake pads and disks last around 100,000 miles due to little use
The street type are great all rounders, reasonable bite and minimal drop off. Pretty low dust and noise, and wear was terrific. The set I had lasted longer than the oem pads I had before them. The performance of the track orientated pads is absolutely insane. The initial bite is like no other pad I've ever had. It drops off a tad but still great stopping power. However dust and noise are pretty terrible.
I run the Project Mu HC+ and DBA4000 rotors on a FK8 CTR that is also daily driven. over all very happy works ok when cold but 1 or 2 stops and its up to temp and has great bite. and really only minor pad sequel when stone cold.
I just had my sister-in-law's 2008 Highlander in my garage on Sunday after she professed that at 150k miles that the brakes were finally making some noise. I ordered a round of rotors and pads and intended to spend a few hours replacing the brakes and the blower motor for the front, as it has been a bit inconsistent in operation. I put the Highlander up on jackstands and pulled the wheels off, and the brakes looked like they had about 10k miles on them.. I was just stunned. I ended up just putting some brake squeal compound on the back of the pads and sent her on her way. They are truly robust and under-rated vehicles.
The best solution I have found is to use slotted rotors--cryo treatment typically gets me 10K more miles before hard spots develop and I get a pedal vibration--and an aggressive pad without any ceramics. My solution is to use the best quality slotted rotor I can find, cryo treatment preferred, and use either a Wilwood BP-10/20 pad or a Project Mu NS brake pad. I found those two pads were aggressive enough to have great stopping power and would wear out the rotor at the same rate the pad wore down.
I personally use Project Mu HC+800 for their fantastic cold bite and high temp resistance.
Brakes were excellent. The pedal was rather easy to push down on with little feedback, but the brakes were very powerful feeling, smooth, and the car stopped straight. Modulation was easy to control. I tried a hard stop and did not provoke the ABS system, nice it only comes into play when I need it.
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