Brakes.. It's been said, but cost more to replace, are heavier but more powerful, so an advantage from that standpoint.
Thiis is what I am contemplating for under $5k strictly for my Golf R to suit my driving needs in the Rockies , New Mexico pleasure driving in the spring and summer, also driving around BC, between Whistler and Kalowna 1) No Engine mods during warranty period or until 2020 ( free !) 2) HPA-Coil Overs ($1500 installed) 3) HPA- Haldex Controller ($1500 installed) 4) New Carbontech 1521 brake pads on OEM rotors ($250 installed) 5) Audi TTRS Brake Hoses ($300 installed) 6) Motul RBF600 brake fluid ($100 installed) 7) HPA-Short Shifter ($250 installed) I am thinking this would not void either the engine or drive train warranty's
I can tell you that after my trip to Mexico to perform a few high speed tests and stops after the pads were bed in, there is zero vibration with this setup. The front end is rock solid under hard braking.
Slap on a set of Akebono ceramic brake pads, and you've got a car ready to take on any highway or race track \u2014 and that's exactly what Flieger is doing with it.
Brakes: Golf R front brakes with Tyrol sport bushings, Neuspeed stainless lines, Motul 600 fluid, Carbotech street pads
My Mk2 VR had the full Corrado G60 front and rears. I used Zimmermann stock replacement rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads. They did an excellent job.
i have hawk ceramic brake pads front and rear along with ss brake lines on my 2012 golf R. I got them from ecs tuning and they work great! nice improvement over stock.
Brembo's
If you are doin competition, yeah, EBC pads and slotted / drilled are worthwhile, but for mere performance road use, there's no point (except for looks). The rotors wear faster, create more dust, and the pads, whilst they may not create as much dust, will squeal.
mintex red-box suck, you want a set, I'll give you mine. I have had mine for about a week they are ok for grandma style braking, but once you really get on them, you are srewed for an hour (of light braking).
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