Water pump you will want to raise the engine to gain access to the water pump. I suggest you use a metal impeller replacement and not a plastic one like the factory original.
I use an oil extractor on our 2016 Tiguan, my 2016 A4, and 2023 Arteon. All have done a great job and make an oil change an absolute breeze.
My 21' had coolant in the cylinders and was burning oil pretty good up until 40k when they replaced the head gaskets....then it still was burning coolant and oil and they replaced the head two weeks later. Mines at 75k now and no further issues(knock on wood)
I put a new battery in it. Because it needed one but then I changed the spark blood wires and it now acts like a brand new car, so go to your spark plugs first.
Crushed filter seen here as well, with low oil pressure light randomly firing at idle. Factory filter is only a couple bucks more (that\u2019s what went in yesterday) - problem solved!
I recently had a similar situation to yours with different codes. I stalled my 1996 GTI VR6 trying to back over a chunk of ice. When I started it back up it sounded like it was running on only a few cylinders. It would only start with my foot to the floor. The codes I had suggested a short in the fuel injector circuit.
Replaced the alternator - twice. The second one failed as a result of a jump start scorching a relay in the voltage :-( Replaced the starter (in 2024), First alternator failed at 49K miles - oddly, when the car came out of the shop, the oil light came on and they found debris in the pick up so I got a new long block (under warranty so I suspect VOA knew of some defect for that model/year). Had one strut bearing fail at about 90K miles. I also had the AC recharged - car actually came from the factory with too much pressure (would ice up on humid days). I've stuck to dealer maintenance for everything except the strut repair and the usual annual CC alignments (well documented issue...) and keep all fluids (coolant/brakes/DSG) fresh. My car is still a daily driver - I'm probably due another battery soon but it runs great. I'm tempted to freshen the struts and control arms and add a rear sway bar - and possibly a tune, but I also see a Golf R in my future! I've run 3 other cars to 250K miles (Volvo 850, Highlander and an Audi 4KQ) and I don't see any reason why the dub can't get to 200K+ particularly if you keep up with a full maintenance plan. You may need to have some carbon blasting done at 100K, have the timing chain tension and service the PCV (leaving that too long leads to the carbon build up in the DI engines) but those are like 50K mile intervals
My 1989 Volkswagen Jetta's ECU was going bad and it started pumping the maximum amount of gasoline into the engine. The car was significantly faster than it was previously. It took a few months, but eventually it flooded the oil compartment with gasoline which seized the engine.
Original was stuck open, replaced with new VW which now appears to be stuck closed. ????. Fortunately I have recently acquired a new OE thermostat on clearance for jollies.
I owned one for about a year. Loved the car, wish I could have kept it. That being said, it was only in drivable condition for about half the time I owned it. I replaced the alternator, fixed the air suspension, redid some vacuum lines, tried to repair the front diff, and that's where I gave up.
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