I put on a set of GX460 Raybestos front caliper about 3 years ago. The were galvanized, but I did a second coating of high temp silver (cured in my oven) - they still look brand new.The Raybestos discs sucked and I got vibration within 18 months. New set of Brembo discs and Ake Bono pads a cured that.The 460 upgrade is super cost effective and gives tons of stopping power
I purposely upgraded my NB’s braking and suspension to race-ready standards because I commute… a LOT.
I have come to realize there are others on the road who are absurdly inept behind the wheel and want every tool at my avail to avoid them. I have fully adjustable Meister-R’s on all four corners and Willwood calipers in the front. I had to put them to the test when someone did a no-look lane change into my lane with ZERO clearance and I was required to stomp on the brakes to keep from hitting them. The Wilwoods earned their keep that night.
Just finished porsche junkyard cayeene Brembo 18z from a junk yard. Super cheap score. Fronts came out great but my audi wheels wont fit. The spokes hit the caliper. So i ordered 10mm spacers and longer lugs.
I have used Powerstop Calipers Brake kits in two trucks. A Chevy 1500 High Country and Honda Ridgeline. I agree with you on detail esthetics but, these are great performance quality and the brake dust residual is so much better. Also they do follow through on their rebate offers. I touched my calipers up with paint.
stage2+ ECU Unitronic tune / stage 1 Unitronic DSG tune CTS K04 , S3 intercooler, injectors, HPFP 200 cell catted downpipe CSF ALUMINUM Radiator F/R Whiteline swaybars w/ whiteline adjustable end links F/R frame lockers F/R ECS / Powerflex urethane bushings Aluminum LCA and rear spindles Mfactory Reference coilovers on Swift linear springs and adjustable mounts Spulen rear adj camber arms Alcon 4 pot mono block calipers w/ stasis 355 calipers front / R32 calipers on 312 vented calipers rear.
Brake pedal drops a bit lower before it begins to stop but it is not spongy. They grab really good, shorter stoping distance, and I can make my ABS actually activate. With the original calipers it was pretty hard to activate for some reason, running the same Akebono Euros as this setup so must be the bigger calipers. Great Upgrade
I feel no difference in pedal feel or stopping distance. It's the aesthetics that made the difference for me.
In the early aughts I scored a set of the Girling 54 calipers from a 16v and my dad and I rebuilt and painted them before installing in my first '84. I didn't upgrade the MC (didn't know better at the time) so the brake pedal travel increased but the braking improved so I kept the set up ... until the next annual MO state vehicle inspection where the car failed for excessive brake pedal travel The 9.4" set up went back on.
Originally thought it was a seized caliper. Car needed a brake job as rotors have corroded away so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads on the front. Symptoms: Caliper on front right doesn't release fully. Audible drag, vibration, heat etc. If i stop and pump the breaks (hard) two or three times it releases (50% of the time). So if it doesn't, pump again. Conversely, light application to the brakes results in the caliper not releasing. Drag strength varies. Sometimes it's slight and causes a slight squeal and light vibration at speed. Sometimes the car won't move when put into drive (it's an automatic).
My rear calipers on my 21 corolla seem to always stick. I have to keep reaplying caliper grease on the pins or they stick .Brakes and rotors wear out quickly. at 35,000km pads and rotors needed to be replaced fronts were still just like new. Just checked rear rotors today and there's superficial grooves on the rears again.
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