When I got my new 1992 Corrado SLC I thought the shocks were too soft and replaced them with Bilsteins. They are still fine after 30 years.
I went with the FCP euro replacement kit, the zimmerman rotors have been fine (another 35k on them), the texar pads work fine, but dust more than OEM
We had Kumhos on the first ID4 for 2-3000 miles and they seemed perfectly fine to me.
Have the stock kumhos from vw which to my knowledge are not the ev specific kumhos that are out now. 17k miles and 0 issues, plenty of tread left. Quiet, ride nice, and do well in rain/deep snow. Definitely recommend them.
After polling the audience, seems like Nissens is a reputable brand to go with. I wanted to try something different than OE since the OE doesn't have a good track record to begin with.
Just for the record, the original OEM is Denso and the W12 uses part number 471-1392 which also has the correct amount of oil in it already!
I run the "Vredestein Wintrac Pro" on msw 18's on my mk8 golf r and they rip in all conditions, I ran them all last winter and showed little wear, although I did avoid hot days.
A typical replacement is Part # 5N0965561A that runs $530 from VAG Australia (Pierburg or Buehler) with another $126 labour and $132 for G13 coolant. Alternatively, get a $70 cheapie like the BAPMIC on eBay (risky, error code may not clear, or part may fail prematurely).
Only 4 water pumps, 1 manual clutch assembly (broken spring on pressure plate) and 48K miles on my MK6
I recently changed the brakes on my MK7.5 Non PP GTI, I chose EBC Redstuff for the disks and pads. I have bedded them in and driven a bit over this per the manual, for the first few weeks I didn't have any issues and they are a lot grabbier than the OEM ones. But with some recent spirited driving, I found that these pads under light to heavy breaking on the front get cooked in less than a mile. Ended up coming to a corner and the pedal was firm, then it wasn't and it was squirming about and not slowing. Getting out of the vehicle I found the pads were smoking really badly as well the heat coming off them had turned the disks blue on the front, while the rears were warm, but nowhere near as bad as the front. The OEM pads took way more abuse, even then they would just judder when they go too hot and never fadded or gave the same symptoms.
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