I had the ETX14 in my N/A R32 for over 2 years and only time it really drains down is short starts and stops from the afterrun coolant pumps running for 5 minutes.
Make sure you get BLUE tinted glass, or it wont match...had to do it to my GLI the only place I could find it was the dealership, then had someone else install it right there. Price wasnt that bad about 300...
going on almost a year on champion $1.99 copper plugs and my car runs just as good if not better than when I had the oem plugs in there...
Instead I rebuilt my original calipers with a rebuilt kit from AutoHausAZ, bought a set of Hawk HPS brake pads, ECS stainless steel vinyl-wrapped brake lines all around, and Brembo cross-drilled and slotted rotors times four. Finally I used ATE synthetic blue brake fluid and a power bleeder, which I highly recommend for our cars.
Had the same problem with my 01 jetta. After I had replaced my mass air flow sensor, I forgot to set the idle air vol. So I took it to the dealer and had them set it for me and now my problem is gone.
if you're planning on keeping the car a while then $365 installed is reasonable for a refurbished bosch (use the same mfr & amp that was OE) and that should come w/warantee & last about as long as the original.
I've had Konis under my 2001 T4 for a while now....my feeling is that they work very well in the front but I'm less convinced in the rear...
Thx for the help...it turned out that it was the ignition switch that was causing all the problems.
Just did a brake job, new ATE OEM rotors up front with new Hawk HPS pads. Just did the run to bed them in, and I'm hearing a wierd noise. When I step on the brakes at a moderate or heavy level I hear kind of a "plunking" noise, I guess you could call it. It has a rhythm that changes with the speed of the car (i.e. the plunking slows down as the wheels slow down).
Fram makes a decent filter for everone else but not for VWs. Something about the cold start bypass valve not working well, or something.
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